If it hasn’t been evident, the traditional gender boundaries within the realm of watches are rapidly dissolving. This shift, coupled with the diminishing popularity of oversized timepieces from the era of “Big Watch,” exemplified by the 46mm Panerais and Breitlings prevalent in the 1990s and early 2000s, has led to a trend of celebrities opting for more delicate options like petite Cartiers, elegant Piagets, and vintage Rolexes. Notably, brands like Panerai and Breitling now offer smaller designs intended for women that have found favor with male clientele as well.
An exemplary case is Timothée Chalamet, our beloved Atreides and a Cartier brand ambassador. Chalamet has been frequently seen donning appealing timepieces from Cartier’s women’s collections. Recently, at a photocall for “Dune: Part II,” he wore a Mini Panthère de Cartier, a model he has showcased publicly before. With a case size of 25mm in stainless steel and powered by a quartz movement, it stands out as one of the more affordable yet classic offerings from the maison. Traditionally associated with female patrons, the Panthère had notable male admirers, including Princess Diana, Madonna, Gwenyth Paltrow, Keith Richards, Charlie Sheen, and Pierce Brosnan since its launch in 1983.
It appears that we are entering another significant horological-stylistic transition where men no longer shy away from sporting sub-40mm wristwatches. Moreover, Cartier seems to be enjoying a notable moment, given its 2022 watch revenue ranking second only to Rolex, surpassing Omega’s for the second time since 2021. This surge in popularity is fueled by a shift towards smaller sizes, increased demand for rare pieces like the Crash at auctions, and the scarcity of sought-after models from rival brands at retail.
Returning to Mr. Chalamet, whether he opts for a rare, diamond-adorned timepiece or a more understated steel choice, his watch selections are poised to influence the broader watch landscape. Having the endorsement of one of the world’s most prominent young actors to explore a world beyond bulky, 40mm+ tool watches and embrace more refined and slender designs feels like a liberating sartorial shift. Regardless of the occasion, be it a dinner jacket, a casual T-shirt, or a promotional event for his latest sci-fi film directed by Denis Villeneuve, the Panthère remains an iconic choice that effortlessly radiates sophistication.
