In the realm of bespoke luxury, there exists a pinnacle of exclusivity: a custom-ordered Patek Philippe timepiece featuring a 13.43-carat portrait-cut diamond as its crystal. This extraordinary horological creation will grace the stage of Christie’s Dubai online watch auction, commencing on October 5, and is expected to fetch an estimated value ranging from $1 million to $2 million.
The genesis of this remarkable Patek Philippe dates back to 1990 when a discerning client commissioned the timepiece and provided the exquisite lasque diamond for its integration. Patek Philippe, renowned for its craftsmanship and innovation, crafted a bespoke white gold case and an integrated bracelet to impeccably accommodate the remarkable diamond, resulting in the creation of a timepiece with the distinctive reference 3843/1. Notably, this lasque diamond ranks as the third-largest of its kind globally, with the largest being a 27-carat specimen utilized to adorn a miniature portrait of Czar Alexander I of Russia. Lasque, or portrait-cut diamonds, are characterized by their transparent, flat facets, meticulously polished and faceted along their sides.
The visual impact of this colossal diamond serving as a crystal is a sensory experience one can only imagine. Diana Scarisbrick, a distinguished jewelry historian, aptly describes the effect, stating that “the reflections of the facets illuminate the portrait, the highly polished limpid surface lets the subject shine through with much more brilliance than crystal.” While photographs capture some semblance of this magnificence, they inherently fall short in truly conveying the diamond’s resplendence.
This Patek Philippe stands in a category of its own within the realm of diamond-studded watches. It is the sole known timepiece to feature a lasque diamond as its crystal, an innovation that beckons other watch and jewelry artisans to explore the possibilities presented by this exceptional gemstone.
Beneath the striking diamond crystal lies a sunburst blue dial meticulously crafted from gold by Stern Frères. The asymmetrical dial is adorned with white gold indices, offering a captivating contrast to the diamond’s triangular shape. The custom 18k white gold case, skillfully fashioned by Genevan casemaker Atelier Réunis, complements the unique reference number with an engraving denoting the lasque diamond’s carat weight. A white gold mesh bracelet elegantly completes the ensemble. This exceptional Patek Philippe 3843/1 is accompanied by a digital Certificate of Origin, tracing its sale back to 1994 and signed by Philippe Stern, further confirming its status as a pièce unique.
Upon encountering this timepiece, one is reminded of the asymmetrical designs of Gilbert Albert or Patek Philippe’s audacious integrated bracelet watches from the 1970s, as featured recently by Malaika. It is a testament to Patek Philippe’s legacy that they revisit and rejuvenate these bold design concepts decades later.
This remarkable timepiece last changed hands at Christie’s Hong Kong in 2016, commanding a price of approximately $445,000. A year prior, it had been acquired for just under $100,000 at a smaller Japanese auction house, also situated in Hong Kong. Now, seven years later, Christie’s Dubai is poised to present it to a discerning audience, with an estimated valuation ranging from $1 million to $2 million. The market for a bespoke Patek Philippe adorned with a diamond crystal is undoubtedly niche, yet Christie’s endeavors, coupled with a distinct market setting, may very well unveil a new chapter in this timepiece’s remarkable journey through the world of horological excellence.
