In the forthcoming Sotheby’s Important Watches auction, a historically significant chronograph is set to become available to collectors and connoisseurs. Launched during the tumultuous era of World War II in 1941, the 1518 reference watch represents a pioneering achievement as the world’s inaugural perpetual calendar chronograph. With a production limited to a mere 281 units, its exclusivity endured until 1954. The watch’s allure was so compelling that it caught the eye of renowned car engineer Clarin Mustad, who, in 1944, had a distinct pink-gold iteration commissioned with a series of unique modifications. This very watch, known as the “Clarin Mustad 1518,” is poised to go under the hammer at Sotheby’s Important Watches sale in November, with auction house estimates suggesting a price range between $2.2 million and $4.4 million.
The “Clarin Mustad 1518,” a 34.7 mm pink-gold chronograph, is considered one of the initial 54 models of the reference produced during WWII. What adds to its rarity is that it is one of merely 14 known examples featuring a matching pink dial, as most pink-gold models were paired with silver dials. Furthermore, Mustad’s influence is evident in the unique case design; it is the sole known instance with an “Empire” case, which lacks the lugs typically found on all other models in the series. These lugs were a functional aspect, enabling owners to interchange between leather straps and metal bracelets, but Mustad’s version integrates the Gay Frères-designed metal bracelet seamlessly into the case.
The distinctive pink dial was crafted by Stern Frères, the company that assumed control of Patek Philippe in 1932. It is likely a “special order” as it deviates from the Arabic numeral dials typical of that era. Mustad’s creative touches extended to requesting pink applied dot hour markers, day and month calendar discs, and baton hands, as outlined in a press release. The enhanced bezel design boasts a larger opening for the crystal, providing an enhanced view of the watch’s moon phase and tachymeter scale features. The bezel’s profile also deviates from the conventional 1518 models.
Upon opening the caseback, one encounters engraved text reading “Mustad Clarin c/o Benoit SA CH-1820 Montreux Reward-Recompense,” a practical addition in case the watch was ever lost. The dial also bears the rare original “Patek Philippe & Co” brand imprint, which subsequently evolved into the more familiar “Patek Philippe” in later models.
Mikael Wallhagen, the head of auction at Sotheby’s Geneva, expressed the unique appeal of the 1518 reference by Patek Philippe, a timepiece that occupies a revered place in the dreams of every watch collector. The prospect of auctioning a reference within this iconic series, marked by its unparalleled design and its association with Hans Clarin Hovind Mustad, credited with inventing the car ignition, is nothing short of exhilarating. The “Clarin Mustad 1518” represents a rare gem in the realm of horology, uniting history, innovation, and the indomitable spirit of its era in a single, breathtaking timepiece.
