In the southeastern Philippines lies the captivating island of Siargao, where I embarked on a quest for the sun but found that life’s rhythm is dictated by the moon. As its milky orb graces the night sky, families gather on the beaches to harvest kayabang crabs, and yogis align their chakras to the lunar cycle. For surfers, the island’s heartbeat, the moon determines the waves at renowned spots like Tuason Point and Quicksilver along the eastern coast.
One June morning, with the air still charged from the full moon, I find myself on a longboard off Siargao’s southeastern shore. Watching local surf pro Ikit Agudo effortlessly carve the waves on her pink board, I witness the profound impact of Siargao’s surf culture. Agudo reflects on how the ocean, the great equalizer, has transformed the mindset of Filipino women, fostering openness and breaking societal barriers.
Siargao’s surfing legacy traces back to the late ’80s, with lore surrounding the discovery of Cloud 9, the now-legendary right-hander. Local and international surf stars like Manuel “Wilmar” Melindo and Rudy Figuron, along with Agudo and her sister Aping, have elevated Siargao’s status on the global surf circuit. The once-nondescript fishing village of General Luna has evolved into a hub for surfers, digital nomads, and adventurous souls from Manila and beyond, all captivated by the warm hospitality of Siargaoans.
However, Siargao faced a formidable challenge when super typhoon Odette struck on December 16, 2021, threatening the island’s upward trajectory. The typhoon left destruction in its wake, testing the resilience of the community. Stories of survival and solidarity emerged, showcasing the indomitable bayanihan spirit. Agudo, diverted to Manila during the disaster, quickly mobilized funds through social media to aid the recovery. Donations poured in from around the world, illustrating the global network supporting Siargao.
Amid the aftermath, Siargaoans rallied together. Surfers organized construction crews, and NGO Lokal Lab, founded by Kara Rosas, played a pivotal role in orchestrating community kitchens and utilizing fallen coconut trees for rebuilding. Despite initial uncertainty and devastation, a sense of normalcy returned within months, with greenery emerging from the rubble.
Lokal Lab’s Tropical Academy exemplifies the island’s commitment to sustainability. The academy, a bamboo-clad vocational school and showcase farm, educates farmers on disaster-resilient practices and promotes biodiversity beyond coconut farming. Siargao confronts challenges like land degradation, pollution, and poverty head-on, positioning itself as a self-sustainable island amid the global climate crisis.
Siargao’s recovery is underscored by the reopening of Nay Palad Hideaway, a luxurious mainstay that weathered the storm. The resort, with its thatched roofs, palm-fringed beach, and barefoot ambiance, stands as a testament to the community’s determination. Hervé Lampert, co-owner of Nay Palad Hideaway, emphasizes the symbolic significance of their perseverance in rebuilding.
The island’s gastronomic scene also reflects its resilience. CEV, owned by David del Rosario, offers experimental ceviche and kinilaw, blending sashimi-grade fish with innovative ingredients. Del Rosario moved from finance to culinary school in New York, seeking a more tranquil island life. He notes that Siargao attracts individuals not driven by financial gain but by a desire to surf and be part of a vibrant community.
While the specter of commercialization looms with plans for an international airport and emerging hotels, Siargao’s waves continue to roll, and its unique charm persists. The moon, ever-present in the island’s rhythm, serves as a reminder of Siargao’s enduring spirit. Walking down the beach one evening, I hear the strains of “You’ll Never Walk Alone” drifting across the bay—a fitting anthem for a community that surfs together and stays together.
Where to Stay:
Nay Palad Hideaway: An iconic Siargao destination, Nay Palad Hideaway offers a whimsical atmosphere with cone-shaped roofs, lounge nooks, and swing chairs. The all-inclusive formula allows guests to relax without the hassle of bills, fostering a pure toes-in-sand experience.
Price: From about £713 per person (minimum two-night stay)
Website: naypaladhideaway.com
Maison Bukana: This angular four-bedroom villa, surrounded by lush vegetation, caters to smart Manileños seeking a tranquil escape. The sustainable construction includes bamboo roofs and floors, a rainwater-fed pool, and walls built from reclaimed plastic waste.
Price: Whole villa from about £1,405
Website: maisonbukana.com
Bombora: Situated off the main road in Santa Fe, Bombora comprises two glass-walled villas with thatch-covered roofs. The villas exude a blend of Ibiza, Bali, and Marrakech influences, offering fully equipped kitchens, alfresco bathtubs, and a laid-back ambiance.
Price: Whole villa from about £100
Website: bomborasiargao.com
Where to Eat and Drink:
White Beard Coffee: Located in General Luna, this coffee haven attracts surfers with brick-thick French toast and expertly poured lattes by owner Arnie Cotecson.
Barbosa: A living room-like cocktail spot in General Luna, perfect for the in-crowd seeking a relaxed atmosphere.
Bonnie: A tapas bar inspired by Madrid’s hole-in-the-wall joints, offering a delightful culinary experience in General Luna.
CEV: Owned by David del Rosario, CEV specializes in experimental ceviche and kinilaw, combining sashimi-grade fish with innovative ingredients.
Kermit: For authentic Neapolitan pizzas, Kermit is a go-to spot. Swiss-Italian owner Gianni Grifoni has been perfecting his dough since 2011.
Siargao remains a haven for those seeking a genuine connection with nature, community, and the exhilarating surf that has made it an international icon. As the island rebuilds and evolves, it stands as a testament to the strength of its people and the timeless allure of its waves.
