Find out where to snorkel with humpback whales, see sharks in pristine lagoons, and discover Polynesian culture in French Polynesia.
Bora Bora comes to mind when people think of French Polynesia’s islands, which are honeymoon favorites. There is a lot more to French Polynesia than 118 islands and atolls that belong to France on an area of water roughly the size of western Europe.
In addition to the far-flung islands of the Marquesas, which boast a rich cultural heritage and tattoo lore, Tahiti’s surf breaks, and the Tuamotu Archipelago’s legendary scuba diving with shark walls, here are some French Polynesia islands you might not have known about.
Rangiroa
As you approach Rangiroa from Papeete in Tahiti, a full hour’s flight (on Air Tahiti) away, it looks like a donut tossed across the ocean. Hotel Kia Ora Resort & Spa and Mai Tai Rangiroa are among the favorites for oceanfront villas and even overwater bungalows near the tiny, thatched-roof airport where you land. Even snorkelers can get in the water with the resident dolphins on the oceanside of Rangiroa Atoll by filling their tanks with scuba diving gas at Rangiroa Diving Center. With family-owned Tereva Tana e Vahine, you will have the perfect day trip. On the boat ride across the lagoon’s interior, you’ll find Blue Lagoon, a placid, protected oasis where baby sharks frolic and you can enjoy seafood lunch on the sand before snorkeling with a larger reef shark and lemon shark.
Is there something you’d like to take home with you? Stop at Pearly, a small shack right across from Mai Tai Rangiroa, to save money on some black beauties you can take home after touring Gaugin’s Pearl Farm in Rangiroa.
Tikehau
Le Tikehau by Pearl Resorts, located on its own private motu (islet), offers a rustic twist on an overwater bungalow stay in the Tuamotus. Getting snorkeling with Tikehau Diving at a spot known as a “cleaning station” for mantas (who get a fear-free meal in return) is just a short boat ride from the resort. On a private boat tour with Tikehau Ocean Tour, you’ll get a real taste of ocean life in the Tuamotus. Following a trip to L’île aux Oiseaux, an island in the lagoon full of nesting boobies, frigates, and terns, owner Denis Grosmaire will spear-fish for your lunch (and show you the ropes if you want to try). It is best to combine Tikehau with Rangiroa, just a 20-minute flight away (Papeete is about 55 minutes away by air).
Moorea
The island of Moorea is just across the channel from bustling Papeete – Tahiti’s main city, where you first land in the French Polynesian islands. Upon docking, Moorea’s emerald-colored jagged mountains beckon adventurers with their jagged peaks. You can enjoy stunning views of Mt. Totui, Opunohu Bay, and Cook’s Bay from the incredible lookout at Belvedere located in the middle of the island. On Moorea’s northeast corner, you can find the hidden beach of Tipaniers by following the coastal route. Located just down the road from there, Moorea Island Beach Hotel offers comfortable bungalows and complimentary kayaks to explore the coral reefs. When you visit Moorea between July and early November, Tahitian-owned outfitters like Enjoy Boat Tours Moorea can take you in the water alongside the behemoths for an eye-to-eye experience. You can also see migrating humpback whales and their babies.
Tahiti
Most international flights arrive in Tahiti, the largest French Polynesian island. A tourist who only visits Tahiti as a jumping off point for French Polynesia misses out on some seriously beautiful natural scenery and genuine Tahitian hospitality. Hilton Hotel Tahiti recently opened in 2021, just a few minutes from the airport, offers rooms overlooking Moorea. Take a stroll through bustling Papeete’s central market (where you’ll find everything from fresh tuna to black pearls from the Tuamotus and handprinted pareos) before renting a car to explore the rest of the island. Many Tahitian surfers raised on these killer island breaks make the pilgrimage to the southwest coast and Teahupo’o, where one of the heaviest waves in the world barrels near a channel just offshore — as well as those who enjoy watching the pros ride monster waves. Take a leisurely drive along the Mono Road, named after Tahiti’s famed infused coconut oil, to explore tiare (flower) plantations, perfumeries, and other iconic attractions.
Bora Bora
Papeete is just 50 minutes away from Bora Bora, another island in the Society Islands in French Polynesia. Simply mentioning its name conjures up images of swaying palms, calm lagoons, and happily canoodling couples. There is stiff competition for romance in Bora Bora, but The St. Regis Bora Bora Resort, with its famous waterfront restaurant Lagoon by Jean Georges, is one of the best places to sleep in Bora Bora with the water lapping the stilt structure beneath your bed. The hotel will open 727 in Spring 2022 with a swoon-worthy view of Mount Otemanu. Bora Bora Cultural Lagoon Tour offers land and sea trips to explore the lagoon and surrounds by traditional Polynesian pirogue during your stay in Bora Bora. In addition to learning about medicinal plants, you will visit the owner’s family motu. A trip to Bora Bora wouldn’t be complete without snorkeling with blacktip reef sharks and rays, an activity easily incorporated into any lagoon itinerary.
Fakarava
Every time you return to Fakarava, the second-largest atoll in the Tuamotu Archipelago, you uncover more aspects of the island. Tetamanu, which is known for its scuba diving, is on the top of most tourists’ lists when they come here. What are the rewards? When you enter the lagoon, you will be greeted by a wall of hundreds of gray reef sharks. Garue, the north pass of the atoll, is less visited, but just as exciting for an underwater adventure with an outfitter like O2 Fakarava. Both sites, as well as most other places around Fakarava, are often home to huge Napoleon wrasse as well as sharks in large numbers. At night, Enoha Pater leads low-tide walks on the ocean side of the atoll, where you’ll see creatures you wouldn’t see while snorkeling during the day. He teaches you all about the medicinal plants growing here on land. At Havaiki Lodge, where there is an onsite black pearl farm and resident nurse sharks that frequent its pier, you can stay in a sweet little bungalow right on the beach surrounded by flowering hibiscus and frangipani.
Huahine
Huahine is one of the Society Islands of French Polynesia (along with Tahiti and Moorea) and is accessible by plane from Papeete in 40 minutes. Visit the islands for hibiscus and bougainvillea gardens, vanilla fields, banana plantations, and atmospheric villages bursting with traditional Tahitian hospitality (get ready to hear the local greeting, “Ia Orana! “). A white-sand beach fronts the thatched-roof bungalows of Hotel Le Mahana along the island’s south coast. Feed the sacred blue-eyed freshwater eels mackerel snacks on your pilgrimage to Huahine. Alternatively, visit Maeva village to learn about Polynesian ceremonies and the Marae of Maeva to see two important cultural sites.
Raiatea
A 45-minute flight from Papeete, Raiatea is another Society Island that yachties adore for its beautiful and safe anchorages and deepwater bays. On the island’s southeast corner, Opoa Beach Hotel offers just nine bungalows facing a stunning beach that will appeal to those without sails to sleep under. The 75-acre private island of Motu Nao Nao is even more secluded, offering only three bungalows. You can kayak along Raiatea’s palm-lined and lovely Faaroa River if you’re looking for adventures inland. You can also hike 11 miles to Mount Temehani for views that extend past the lagoon below to Huahine, Bora Bora, Taha’a and Maupiti islands.
Nuku Hiva
It is worth noting that Crosby, Stills, and Nash mentioned the Marquesas Islands in their song “Southern Cross,” along with the “downhill run to Papeete.” In addition, Nuka Hiva (the largest island in the chain) is over three hours from Papeete by air. In the Marquesas, where the waters are darker and rich in nutrients, snorkeling isn’t about sparkling clear lagoons. You can also hike to thundering waterfalls in lush rainforests and encounter rich Polynesian culture. Enjoy some of the best views from the sprawling infinity pool at Le Nuka Hiva by Pearl Resorts, the nicest place to stay on the island. After that, take a boat with Cannibal Art to the Hakaui Valley to hike to Vaipo Waterfall, one of Polynesia’s tallest waterfalls. It’s worthwhile hiking 1.5 hours to reach the 1,148-foot cascade, which plummets down from 1,148 feet. Polynesians are known throughout Polynesia for their talent as artists, and their traditional wares include jewelry, carvings, and tattoos, so don’t be surprised if you bring home a souvenir with a tattoo. There will be many others like you. There’s no doubt about that.
Maupiti
The island of Maupiti (50 minutes from Papeete on mainland Tahiti) is popular with French families seeking a break from Papeete and its overwater bungalow-free lagoon. You won’t find big hotels here, only Tahitian guest houses where you’ll experience local culture and hospitality as welcoming as the flower leis you’ll see almost everywhere in French Polynesia. Maupiti Diving offers snorkeling and scuba diving opportunities with manta rays near Maupiti’s south pass, as well as strolling the shallow waters along Tereia Beach’s china-white sands. These parts are surrounded by natural beauty. Taking it all in is your only mission.
