Marlon Brando’s Rolex GMT Master Reference 1675, famously featured in the 1979 film Apocalypse Now, is arguably his most iconic watch. The Rolex, stripped of its bezel and bearing the marks of Brando’s rough character Kurtz, fetched an impressive $1,950,200 at auction in 2019. It then sold again in 2023 for nearly $5 million. Another notable piece is the Rolex Datejust Brando wore in The Godfather, also recognized and valued by enthusiasts.
However, there is a lesser-known timepiece that once belonged to Brando, which, although not tied to any films or notable auction results, provides a glimpse into a different side of the actor. This watch, a Vacheron Constantin, offers a window into a younger and more refined Marlon Brando.
The Vacheron Constantin watch was a gift from Hungarian movie star Zsa Zsa Gabor, given in celebration of Brando’s 1954 Oscar win for On the Waterfront. Unlike Brando’s more ruggedly famous timepieces, this solid-gold Vacheron Constantin is small, delicate, and sophisticated. In 2007, the watch sold to an anonymous buyer—presumed to be Vacheron Constantin itself—for $18,000. At the time, Antiquorum had estimated its value to be as low as $2,500, highlighting how wristwatch collecting was still relatively niche.
Robb Report was granted exclusive access by Vacheron Constantin to handle, wear, and photograph this exquisite watch. The luxury brand has transported the watch—along with others owned by historical figures—from Geneva to various locations including California and Manhattan, where it was recently examined.
The Vacheron Constantin watch is not only historically significant due to its association with Brando but also a stunning example of 1950s watchmaking excellence. During this era, Vacheron Constantin, alongside Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet, achieved peak craftsmanship. The 1950s are often considered a “golden age” of Swiss watchmaking, marked by exceptional quality and design.
What sets Vacheron Constantin apart is its diverse design approach. Unlike Patek Philippe and Audemars Piguet, which maintained more consistent designs, Vacheron Constantin’s varied styles from this period remain incredibly rare. Typically, only about 20 watches of each dial variant were produced and distributed widely, ensuring a high level of exclusivity. This rarity makes collecting mid-century Vacheron Constantin watches both challenging and rewarding, though Brando’s watch would likely command a seven-figure sum today.
The subtle elegance of these older Vacheron Constantin dress watches can be difficult to convey through photographs alone. The true allure of these timepieces becomes apparent when worn. They epitomize the concept of quiet luxury—offering sophistication to the wearer while presenting a refined, understated elegance to others. The Vacheron Constantin watch’s guilloché dial features a hand-crafted wave pattern that is more striking under magnification but equally impressive at arm’s length. The applied solid gold markers and sleek pencil hands are hallmark features of mid-century Vacheron Constantin’s understated luxury, and the thin yellow-gold case adds to its quiet yet exquisite charm.
Details about Marlon Brando and Zsa Zsa Gabor’s relationship remain scant, and little is known about the watch’s backstory. No photos of Brando and Gabor together are available, and Gabor’s account of meeting Brando on The Tonight Show is chronologically incorrect, given the 1954 date inscribed on the watch. Gabor’s autobiography includes an anecdote where Brando allegedly expressed his desire to have sex with her during a Carson taping, though this story is separate from the watch’s origin. Both Brando and Gabor had multiple relationships and marriages, making an intimate connection plausible. Yet, the watch—a formal gift commemorating Brando’s Oscar win—feels more like a gesture of friendship rather than romance. The true nature of their relationship and the significance of the gift may remain a mystery.
In contrast to Brando’s portrayal of raw, aggressive masculinity in Apocalypse Now, his early career revealed a balance of both masculine and feminine traits. Brando’s imposing physique and strong features were complemented by a softer, more nuanced demeanor, a combination that brought a new level of realism to American acting in the 1950s. This Vacheron Constantin watch reflects the same blend of boldness and refinement, a quality that is becoming increasingly popular as smaller, dressier watches make a comeback. Brando’s ability to balance these elements in his acting mirrors the delicate elegance of his Vacheron Constantin timepiece, highlighting a timeless appeal that transcends trends.
